I have just done some grading training using Lectra software and discovered that mathematical PI is another way to achieve accurate results for proper fitting sleeves. We can discuss PI in another post. In this post I will discuss how one grades the sleeve cap and armhole, which can be a very fristrutating task to any newbie.

Grading a garment at the sleeve point involves adjusting the size of the garment pattern to fit different body measurements while ensuring that the armholes and sleeve caps match for each size. This is essential to maintain proper fit and proportions across sizes. Here’s how to grade a garment and ensure the armholes and sleeve caps align:

1. Understand the Grading Rules:

Grading involves increasing or decreasing the pattern size according to specific measurements (e.g., bust, waist, armhole, and sleeve). For sleeves and armholes, you must follow the established grading rules, which dictate how much to increase or decrease measurements for each size.

• Horizontal Grading (width): Adjusts the circumference of the armhole and sleeve width.
• Vertical Grading (height): Adjusts the length of the sleeve and height of the armhole.

2. Grading the Armhole:

The armhole must be graded to ensure it matches the sleeve cap as the sizes increase or decrease.

• Horizontal Grading: Add increments to the armhole width on both the front and back bodice pieces. For instance, if the grade rule for the bust is 2 cm per size, you may add 1 cm to the front armhole and 1 cm to the back armhole.

• Vertical Grading: Add length to the armhole, keeping the shape intact. Typically, 0.5 cm to 1 cm is added to the armhole depth for each size.

3. Grading the Sleeve Cap:

The sleeve cap needs to match the graded armhole circumference to ensure a smooth fit.

• Horizontal Grading: Increase the sleeve width across the bicep area by the same amount as the armhole (for example, if the armhole is increased by 2 cm, the sleeve should also be increased by 2 cm). This keeps the sleeve consistent with the armhole size.

• Vertical Grading: The height of the sleeve cap may also need adjustment. Typically, for larger sizes, you’ll increase the sleeve cap height to ensure the curve matches the larger armhole, but the increments are smaller (0.2 cm to 0.5 cm). This keeps the sleeve fitting smoothly into the armhole.

4. Check the Sleeve Cap and Armhole Match:

After grading both the armhole and sleeve cap, it’s crucial to check that the two measurements match.

• Measure the Armhole: Measure the entire circumference of the armhole (front and back) for the graded size.

• Measure the Sleeve Cap Curve: Measure the curved edge of the sleeve cap to ensure it matches the armhole circumference. The sleeve cap length should ideally be slightly longer (1-2 cm) than the armhole for ease.

5. Adjust the Ease:

Ease is important in sleeve and armhole fitting. The sleeve cap should have a slight amount of ease (extra fabric) compared to the armhole. This allows the sleeve to fit smoothly into the armhole without being too tight.

• For Woven Garments: Typically, 1-2 cm of ease is required.
• For Knitted Garments: Minimal ease is required, as stretch fabrics can accommodate movement without extra fabric.

6. Test the Fit:

Once you’ve graded the garment, it’s essential to test the fit by making a sample. Check how the sleeve fits into the armhole for different sizes, and make any necessary adjustments to the grading if the sleeve cap and armhole don’t align properly.

7. Proportionate Grading Across Sizes:

Ensure that as the garment increases or decreases in size, the proportion between the armhole and sleeve cap remains consistent. If there is a significant size jump, you may need to adjust the grading increments to maintain a balanced fit.

Summary Steps:

1. Apply grading rules to the armhole (both width and height).
2. Grade the sleeve width and sleeve cap height to match the armhole changes.
3. Measure both the armhole and sleeve cap to ensure they match for each size.
4. Maintain ease in the sleeve cap for proper fitting.
5. Test the graded garment to ensure a smooth fit across all sizes.

By carefully following these steps, you can ensure that the armholes and sleeve caps match accurately in each size, leading to a well-fitting garment across all graded sizes.